Overview
A popular question you hear when traveling Patagonia is how long to spend in El Calafate and El Chalten. These towns have lots to offer and if you’re short of time, this is the perfect itinerary for seeing all the highlights and the best of each one. This includes stunning sights and hikes to go on, lovely cafes, restaurants and bars.
Throughout Patagonia the day light is very long during the summer, sunsets can be after 10pm in some regions. This is what makes seeing the highlights so helpful as you have a lot of time during the day to explore. The weather in summer can vary but it is generally quite cold and windy in the mornings and nights.
Currency
In Argentina the cheapest way to travel is paying with cash. If you are coming from overseas the most recommended way is through a Western Union transfer. (You send from the bank account in your country into local cash withdrawal.) This has the best conversion rate considering all fees. Even hotel reservations on websites like booking.com will show prices attached to the American dollar.
Booking accommodation
Both El Calafate and El Chalten have a heavy amount of tourists especially during the peak season. This means that accomodation can book up very far ahead of your planned time to go there. You can of course turn up with no bookings if you’re a risky traveller but if you like some certainty it’s better to book online, ahead of when you plan to go. That being said if you are traveling Patagonia with a tent you’ll have a lot more flexibility.
El Calafate
El Calafate is the gateway to the Los Glaciares national park where the Perito Moreno Glacier is located. That is the main attraction in the region and pretty much the reason why many people go there.
Access to the national park
Every day there are several transfers from the town to the park usually at 7am returning in the afternoon.
The glacier is around 75km away from the city and many companies operate the transfers. The cheapest one we found was at Calafate Hostel, downtown. This bus runs twice a day at 7am and 1pm.
In addition to the Perito Moreno glacier, the other attractions we saw in Calafate are:
Laguna Nimez Reserve
The reserve is home to hundreds of Chilean flamingos. It is a smaller lagoon that meets the great Lago Argentino, which has an impressive turquoise blue water and runs through several cities. I recommend having a walk along the shores of the lakes for as far as you can go. Great spots for a swim in blue waters if you are lucky to be there in a warm day.
Town Center
Here there are so many options for eating and drinking. This is a very Friendly town, with people from all over the world visiting every year. Also, while you’re here you should check out the Glaciarium museum, which has plenty of information about glaciers and will give you an even better understanding on the fantastic Perito Moreno Glacier.
To read a complete guide of El Calafate click here
El Chalten
El Chalten is to climbers and hikers what Hawaii is to surfers. In the summer they come from all over the world making this small town a huge international mix.
El Chalten is a very small town so everything is assessable by foot. It is a stunning place surrounded by mountains and is only 4 hours away from El Calafate by bus.
The greatest attractions in the area are all the hikes you can go on. The most iconic one is the Mount Fitzroy. Best viewed from a stunning crystal clear lake called Laguna de los Tres. A popular activity to do is to camp in the mountains as there are many walking tracks with campsites along the way. Also what’s great about El Chalten is If you aren’t a regular hiker and don’t carry equipment, everything can be hired in local shops.
Mountain tracks can be quite difficult. However there are options for all levels.
Laguna de los Tres at Sunrise
To make the most of what Fitzroy has to offer, the ideal plan is to be there for the sunrise, which rewards all the hassle. This means walking up the mountain the day before and camping at the “Pincenot” campsite, which is 2km away from the Laguna de los Tres.
Camping Poincenot
The walk to Poincenot is moderate. It’s 8km away from the beginning of the trail and it isn’t as steep as the final 2km of the next day.
In the mountains everyone drinks water from the river, which comes straight from the mineral springs of the glaciers and there are no usable bathrooms, so it’s a wild style.
The next morning, ideally you should start the walk at 3:30am. This will give you an optimal amount of time. This is the hardest part of the journey because its the steepest part of the walk that you will have to face.
However you are not carrying any weight as you can leave anything not valuable in your tent at the camp. All you need is a bottle of water, headlight and your camera. Keep in mind it can get really cold up there and very windy, so make sure to put some warm layers on. Ideally you’ll want some hiking poles too. This will take the pressure off your knees on the way back down, as it is very steep.
The walk is tough however on a clear day the sunrise time is the most unique and very rewarding. Certainly worth the 3:30am alarm clock!
Itinerary for 5 nights / 6 days
This suggested itinerary takes into consideration that your arrival in El Calafate is reasonably early – check in up to 5pm
Day 1 – Arrival in El Calafate
- Check in to your accomodation, take some time to relax before going to Calafate Hostel to purchase the transfer to Perito Moreno Glacier for the next day. – book for 7am!
- At Calafate Hostel, purchase your bus tickets to El Chalten for the third day of your trip and the return for the fifth day (ideally leaving Calafate @ 1:00 pm and returning two days later @ 6:00pm – several departures available)
- Take a peaceful walk around the town and enjoy a relaxing walk to Laguna Nimez/Lago Argentino, a really special time to come here is during sunset, you’re able to enjoy the colour changing skies and watching the flamingos gather in the water.
- On your way back to your accomodation, enjoy a craft beer or a nice dinner in the town to get ready for your busy few days ahead.
Day 2 – Perito Moreno Glacier
- Make your way to Calafate Hostel for your 7am departure to the glacier. The views on the way to the national park are stunning so I recommending staying awake for the journey.
- Your transfer will drop you at the information centre where you are able to get the free shuttle to the start of the board walks or book onto a boat tour. You can also walk to the board walks form here too if you’d prefer.
- If you have opted to just take the board walks and not do any extra trips follow the coloured tracks to make the most out of your day. We were advised to do a complete loop of the central track (yellow). This one has the best views of the glacier but is also the busiest. The side of the glacier trails (blue and green), we suggest you to walk for a few decks and then to come back, this is to avoid to only see trees and bush as the loop doesn’t have a complete view. (You can get your park pass at the gate on the way in, this gives you access to all the board walks available).
There are many options of tours such as boat trips to ice walks on the glacier with ice crampons. These all vary in price and most don’t include transfer so if you do opt for one of these you may still need to book a transfer yourself. You can also buy anything on arrival if they have space or you can arrange it at the Calafate Hostel. However most accomodations will have information on tours available.
- When you come back you have time to relax, get some lunch in the city or to take the walk around the laguna reserve if you didn’t so already to see the flamingos.
Day 3 – Trip to El Chalten
- The journey to El Chalten is a 4 hour bus trip which you will be departing at 1pm.
- Check in to your accomodation for the night and chat to the accomodation management about leaving your luggage with them for when you go on your hike. Most have a system where they are happy to take your things and look after them until you return.
- Rent camping equipment if you don’t already have it, you’ll need a tent, sleeping bag, mattress, hiking sticks, headlight, backpack and cooking items (optional). Patagonia Hikes, has combo packs for the best price in town. (Check maps me for location). You can’t book your equipment. It’s first come first serve. As you are going the next morning wait until around 7:30pm. This is near their closing time, so they will charge you from the next day. This way you don’t need to worry about not getting your camping gears the next day.
- Buy food for your camping trip. There are a few supermarkets located around the town. They all supply easy walking foods such as packet soups, noodles etc. Choose items that won’t weigh much in your backpack but will keep you happy for the next day and morning. I would also suggest to bring a 1L bottle of water, you are able to fill this up in the rivers along the way.
- In the evening relax and enjoy the town. Get prepared for the walk the next day. There are some lovely restaurants in town, El Chalten Cervezaria have lovely locally craft beer and quality pizza! A lot of the pubs around the main road offer a happy hour betweem 4pm to 8pm.
Day 4 – Laguna de los Tres trail
- Laguna del los Tres trail, the access to the mountain and use of the campsites are free. The name of the trail is called Sendero al Fitzroy. I recommend to start the walk no later then 2pm. this way you get to enjoy your walk peacefully and set up and explore your surroundings. (Before heading out on your walk check out Paisa cafe for a coffee to boost your energy levels – best coffee in El Chalten)
- Follow the signs along the trail, they are marked at every Kilometre so this will help you figure out your timings and pace. You’ll be aiming for Poincenot campsite. Usually this takes 2h30m if you don’t have any breaks. Remember that the days are long so you don’t need to rush, control your pace enjoy the views and take lots of photos.
- At around the 4km there are 2 ways (start of the loop) – you will see the sign. To the left you will walk by Laguna Capri and to the right is the path to the view point Mirador al Fitzroy. At the end the paths meet up again. Walk up on the right so you are able to see the lookout and the next day on your return walk back down through the Laguna.
- Enjoy the many viewpoints for photos on the way. Mount Fitzroy is stunning and you are able to appreciate it for most of your hike.
- When you arrive at the campsite, set up camp, prepare food, relax and enjoy the stars in the night. The sky is sparkling on a clear night. Get ready for your incline walk the next day. Don’t forget to set your alarm.
If you arrive early, you still have all day. Not far from the Poincenot campsite you can walk to Laguna Sucia, which is beautiful, with turquoise blue water and it is around 40min away. Drop your weight at the campsite and do this worthwhile Lagoon as a bonus.
Day 5 – Mount Fitzroy + Return to El Calafate
- Wake up at 3:15am, leave the tent as it is and leave all your heavy stuff behind, start the walk to Laguna de los tres at 3:30am (You only need water, poles, headlight and your camera).
- It’s a 2km walk mostly very steep, so take your time. There will be many others also doing this walk so you won’t get lost. Keep in mind it’s still very dark this early in the morning so make sure to watch where you’re stepping.
- When you arrive to the top and have the view of the lagoon, pick your spot get comfortable and take in the reward of doing this hike. The 360° degree view is stunning. You’re able to enjoy the mountains from all different colours.
- Make sure to stay up there for the main event, at one point when the sun is over the horizon the sun fully shines on the towers turning them the most beautiful orange tones, this is around 7am.
- After the sunrise explore the surroundings, you can go down to the laguna and get the most stunning pictures of the lake reflecting off the surface of the water. Or you could walk towards the towers on your left. There is an easy walk to a cliff edge with an amazing view of Laguna Sucia from above.
- Take the walk back down and pack your bags for the return. It will be a 10km walk in total but all downhill, so it’s much easier and much quicker.
- Return equipment, walk back to your accommodation where you left your stuff and enjoy the town before returning on your 6pm bus.
Depending on how quick you get back to town and how tired you are you could opt to go for a walk to Chorrillo del Salto waterfall, its only a 1hr 20 minuets return and worth seeing on a clear day. If you prefer to relax get yourself some nice food in town.
Day 6 – Good Bye!
If your flight or bus out of town isn’t early there’s still time to enjoy El Calafate you could visit the Glaciarium museum or take a walk around the laguna in case you haven’t done it yet.
Day trip option to El Chalten
If camping is not for you, you can do Laguna de los Tres in one day and head up there in the afternoon, you can also include the Chorrillo del Salto waterfall. It’s stunning and if it’s a hot day, don’t forget your swimmers. It is around 1:20m walk from the town.
All places are on App Maps me. Don’t forget to download the maps of the Patagonia.
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